loving this song

Shadow Lands

After leaving Queenstown and Ben's hospitality we headed off down to the Millford Sound, and through some of the most stunning scenery yet. Driving through the 'Plains of Rohan' was quite creepy as the mists rolled through the big valley. Stopped for pretty much the worlds best Pie ever! To get into the Millford Sound we had to drive through the mines of moria which was pretty amazing as the tunnel lights werent working and the traffic lights were out as well...emerging on the other side we found our selves surounded by mah-assive mountains with shear drops down to the steep windy valley floor. 

Millford Sound was indescribable. Im tempted to leave it at that and let the photos show you, but they dont really do it justice! It was like nothing I had seen before, (better than the fjords in Norway by far). Waterfalls just fee falling for ridiculous heights into the sea and vertically steep faces on every side.

Queens Town!

The drive into Queenstown had been described by Ian, as being "two routes one for the brave and one for the sensible" so naturally we took the 'brave' option and coaxed our wee van up and over the mountain pass (lord of the rings style) and were greeted  by magnificent views of the lake and mountains around Queenstown. Finally we had reached Lord of the Rings Territory! Much of the journey was taken up with quotes from the films and general LOTR trivia.  The town was beautiful and having been fore warned about Ferg Burger we went in search of this mighty meaty challenge. Sitting on the lake shore watching the sun dip bellow the magnificent mountain range (which surrounds the town/lake) while sipping a beer and digesting the meat overload we agreed we had found somewhere (at-last) in the south island we could live...if only there was waves!

Camping below the peak of Ben Lomond at the lakes edge again we resorted to LOTR  commentary and I finally  gave in and asked to learn the ways of rummy. After finishing my book, reading every leaflet, running the ipods flat and doodling on every spare blank space it was the lesser of 2 evils (Intense boredom or cards). I might add I am AMAZING and Egyptian Rat Screw is just a ridiculous game for people who cant handle real games.

While ideally wandering the streets of queenstown weighing up our options on how best to get an adrenalin fix we wandered passed Quicksilver and who else is standing in the doorway but Ben Lethem (from Lochgilphead now Im starting to believe this really is a small world). On his advice we head off up the mountain on the cable car for a introduction tandem flight with the paragliding company G-force. For those of you who know that feeling you get the first time you pop up, drop down the face of a wave feeling the acceleration and make that first wobbly bottom turn and you look up on the glassy green face shimmering and stretching off in front of you and that feeling of untainted child-like excitement. The feeling that leaves you just wanting more. Well thats kinda how I felt as my feet left the ground the noise, cares and worries left us behind as we sored out over queenstown. Our instructors gave us both a thrilling flight with high banking wing overs where the G force crushed you into the seat followed by the weightless free fall felling of a controlled stall. I feel I owe an apology to Tim my pilot who patiently answerer all my questions on landing  on all the technicalities and techniques/skills required to fly.

Being handed a Cd with photos of our flight was one thing but a book of discounts around town was another thing and I dont think Mairi's smile could have got bigger when she realised what it was! Taking advantage of the discounts we indulged in possibly Biggest/Best ice cream ever, a dodgie half pint of home made pub ale and then headed off to find a hair dresser willing to take on the challenge of my mop of hair. After scouring the back streets and low life haunts of the cheap barbers who might be desperate enough to want to cut my hair we discovered such a man, a french man! Who worryingly seemed to quite enjoy touching my head and running his fingers through my hair. Putting it out of mind and showing off my C grade standard grade french I ended up with very short but adequate trim. Dinner with Ben and his adopted family that night was amazing and it was really good to hear about all the goings on in the town. The next morning minds a bit hazy after a few beers the night before we decided to head on up Ben Nevis, unfortunately our body's weakened from the night before weren't holding out too well against the heat and steep gradient and by the top of the gondola the conclusion was unanimous. It would be a far better use of our time to play on the luge track and try set best times, ram each other off the track and try get air off the wee jump rather than climb a mountain with all the pain and effort that goes with it. 

Ice Ice baby

After camping next to a raging river we awoke to the dreaded drizzle, spirits still high from the day before we set off south and before long the sun was out again and we begun getting excited about out Glacier experience later in the day, not to mention the very much needed wash in the complementary glacier hot pools afterwards. However on arrival in Franz Joseph we were told our trip had been double booked and the fault lay (as per usual) with the DOC lady in the eyesore up the road who had not booked us in properly. RAGING! Disheartened we re booked for later in the day at the next Glacier down - Fox Glacier - and jumped back in the van and headed on down the road. Enroute angry looking clouds began brewing on the western horizon and before we knew it the rain which began as a patter begun to lash down and by the time we arrived neither of us wanted to leave the van to even turn on the gas never mind climb a Glacier. After a quick hot choc and a call to the Fox Guiding company  our tour was changed to the next day with promises of better weather and a chance to book into a posh campsite with hot showers our moral improved significantly. Not feeling in any way guilty we made full use of the hot showers (for my self to shear off my beard and mairi a chance to wash her hair properly) and then moved on to hog the tv remote from kids in the tv room.

*The text in italics is for iain boyd's  benefit.*

Awaking to a crisp/freezingly clear stary sky we made it up to the Lake Mathieson for dawn(ish) to witness the 'miracle' of seeing the mountains reflected 'perfectly' in the lake. This was one of worst times for "I wish I'd brought my SLR and tripod and Filters". And the wee camera just didn't really do it justice, it was beautifully peaceful and well worth the dawny mission. After a hearty breakfast it was time to head on up the Glacier and as there want a cloud in the sky we began to feel rather smug about how things had worked out. The drive up to the glacier along the U shaped Valley was impressive, but it was nothing compared to what we witnessed as we climbed over the Terminal Moraine to the Glacial river pouring out of a hole in the ice and watching the steam rise from the freezing water as it met with the warmer air. The trek up onto the glacier was magnificent, Mairi could barely contain her excitement through her shivering and chattering teeth. While climbing up a set of hacked out steps (they were of exceptional quality) the shout "Ewan...Ewan McMillan" met us, as Sam Butler came into view wielding a massive axe (pretty much as big as himself). Sam being a good mate from Tarbert was working as guide on the Glacier and had been assigned to step cutting that day. Small world eh! From glacier  the truncated spurs with their steep sides littered with scree and their hanging valley water falls were pointed out and effect the high levels of precipitation and frost shattering had on the danger of rock falls on the valley floor. After being told/scared about the possibilities/dangers of crevasse and the  labyrinth of tunnels draining away melt water through the ice I was almost glad to get my feet back on the almost secure ground of the valley floor. After our extensive tour of the lower glacier we  headed back down to catch up with Sam for dinner. 

Vitimen D and Drizzle

Ewan: "Mairi...whats that weird sound?"
Mairi : "Dunno...its so quiet! Hang on a wee minute that's the sound of birds singing!"
Ewan: "I'll have a look...MAIRI its not raining, and the winds died! That's the sound of a nice day!!!"


So finally the rain stopped and as we drove south along the west coast we had a great time finally being able to see the stunning mountain ranges caped with snow and the deep blue of the ocean (Flat Ocean, but at least it wasn't an angry mess of white water). Stopping at some Cliffs with a big car park we discover there were blow holes and egarly headed off camera ready to capture this natural phenomena. Unfortunately the tide was at the wrong height, or the lack of surf, dunno either way but the blow holes weren't blowing. Undetered we continued out along the cliffs and had a cracking time. So much so we got ahead of our selves and thought we had got one up on Old Mother Nature and went straight back to the Eyesore (eye sight tourist office) and booked a days guided walking on the Franz Joseph Glacier the next day. Content that our luck had changed and we had broken Mother Natures resolve we headed on south marvelling at the natural beauty of the landscape and how much difference some vitamin D can make on your mood.