loving this song

Shadow Lands

After leaving Queenstown and Ben's hospitality we headed off down to the Millford Sound, and through some of the most stunning scenery yet. Driving through the 'Plains of Rohan' was quite creepy as the mists rolled through the big valley. Stopped for pretty much the worlds best Pie ever! To get into the Millford Sound we had to drive through the mines of moria which was pretty amazing as the tunnel lights werent working and the traffic lights were out as well...emerging on the other side we found our selves surounded by mah-assive mountains with shear drops down to the steep windy valley floor. 

Millford Sound was indescribable. Im tempted to leave it at that and let the photos show you, but they dont really do it justice! It was like nothing I had seen before, (better than the fjords in Norway by far). Waterfalls just fee falling for ridiculous heights into the sea and vertically steep faces on every side.

Queens Town!

The drive into Queenstown had been described by Ian, as being "two routes one for the brave and one for the sensible" so naturally we took the 'brave' option and coaxed our wee van up and over the mountain pass (lord of the rings style) and were greeted  by magnificent views of the lake and mountains around Queenstown. Finally we had reached Lord of the Rings Territory! Much of the journey was taken up with quotes from the films and general LOTR trivia.  The town was beautiful and having been fore warned about Ferg Burger we went in search of this mighty meaty challenge. Sitting on the lake shore watching the sun dip bellow the magnificent mountain range (which surrounds the town/lake) while sipping a beer and digesting the meat overload we agreed we had found somewhere (at-last) in the south island we could live...if only there was waves!

Camping below the peak of Ben Lomond at the lakes edge again we resorted to LOTR  commentary and I finally  gave in and asked to learn the ways of rummy. After finishing my book, reading every leaflet, running the ipods flat and doodling on every spare blank space it was the lesser of 2 evils (Intense boredom or cards). I might add I am AMAZING and Egyptian Rat Screw is just a ridiculous game for people who cant handle real games.

While ideally wandering the streets of queenstown weighing up our options on how best to get an adrenalin fix we wandered passed Quicksilver and who else is standing in the doorway but Ben Lethem (from Lochgilphead now Im starting to believe this really is a small world). On his advice we head off up the mountain on the cable car for a introduction tandem flight with the paragliding company G-force. For those of you who know that feeling you get the first time you pop up, drop down the face of a wave feeling the acceleration and make that first wobbly bottom turn and you look up on the glassy green face shimmering and stretching off in front of you and that feeling of untainted child-like excitement. The feeling that leaves you just wanting more. Well thats kinda how I felt as my feet left the ground the noise, cares and worries left us behind as we sored out over queenstown. Our instructors gave us both a thrilling flight with high banking wing overs where the G force crushed you into the seat followed by the weightless free fall felling of a controlled stall. I feel I owe an apology to Tim my pilot who patiently answerer all my questions on landing  on all the technicalities and techniques/skills required to fly.

Being handed a Cd with photos of our flight was one thing but a book of discounts around town was another thing and I dont think Mairi's smile could have got bigger when she realised what it was! Taking advantage of the discounts we indulged in possibly Biggest/Best ice cream ever, a dodgie half pint of home made pub ale and then headed off to find a hair dresser willing to take on the challenge of my mop of hair. After scouring the back streets and low life haunts of the cheap barbers who might be desperate enough to want to cut my hair we discovered such a man, a french man! Who worryingly seemed to quite enjoy touching my head and running his fingers through my hair. Putting it out of mind and showing off my C grade standard grade french I ended up with very short but adequate trim. Dinner with Ben and his adopted family that night was amazing and it was really good to hear about all the goings on in the town. The next morning minds a bit hazy after a few beers the night before we decided to head on up Ben Nevis, unfortunately our body's weakened from the night before weren't holding out too well against the heat and steep gradient and by the top of the gondola the conclusion was unanimous. It would be a far better use of our time to play on the luge track and try set best times, ram each other off the track and try get air off the wee jump rather than climb a mountain with all the pain and effort that goes with it. 

Ice Ice baby

After camping next to a raging river we awoke to the dreaded drizzle, spirits still high from the day before we set off south and before long the sun was out again and we begun getting excited about out Glacier experience later in the day, not to mention the very much needed wash in the complementary glacier hot pools afterwards. However on arrival in Franz Joseph we were told our trip had been double booked and the fault lay (as per usual) with the DOC lady in the eyesore up the road who had not booked us in properly. RAGING! Disheartened we re booked for later in the day at the next Glacier down - Fox Glacier - and jumped back in the van and headed on down the road. Enroute angry looking clouds began brewing on the western horizon and before we knew it the rain which began as a patter begun to lash down and by the time we arrived neither of us wanted to leave the van to even turn on the gas never mind climb a Glacier. After a quick hot choc and a call to the Fox Guiding company  our tour was changed to the next day with promises of better weather and a chance to book into a posh campsite with hot showers our moral improved significantly. Not feeling in any way guilty we made full use of the hot showers (for my self to shear off my beard and mairi a chance to wash her hair properly) and then moved on to hog the tv remote from kids in the tv room.

*The text in italics is for iain boyd's  benefit.*

Awaking to a crisp/freezingly clear stary sky we made it up to the Lake Mathieson for dawn(ish) to witness the 'miracle' of seeing the mountains reflected 'perfectly' in the lake. This was one of worst times for "I wish I'd brought my SLR and tripod and Filters". And the wee camera just didn't really do it justice, it was beautifully peaceful and well worth the dawny mission. After a hearty breakfast it was time to head on up the Glacier and as there want a cloud in the sky we began to feel rather smug about how things had worked out. The drive up to the glacier along the U shaped Valley was impressive, but it was nothing compared to what we witnessed as we climbed over the Terminal Moraine to the Glacial river pouring out of a hole in the ice and watching the steam rise from the freezing water as it met with the warmer air. The trek up onto the glacier was magnificent, Mairi could barely contain her excitement through her shivering and chattering teeth. While climbing up a set of hacked out steps (they were of exceptional quality) the shout "Ewan...Ewan McMillan" met us, as Sam Butler came into view wielding a massive axe (pretty much as big as himself). Sam being a good mate from Tarbert was working as guide on the Glacier and had been assigned to step cutting that day. Small world eh! From glacier  the truncated spurs with their steep sides littered with scree and their hanging valley water falls were pointed out and effect the high levels of precipitation and frost shattering had on the danger of rock falls on the valley floor. After being told/scared about the possibilities/dangers of crevasse and the  labyrinth of tunnels draining away melt water through the ice I was almost glad to get my feet back on the almost secure ground of the valley floor. After our extensive tour of the lower glacier we  headed back down to catch up with Sam for dinner. 

Vitimen D and Drizzle

Ewan: "Mairi...whats that weird sound?"
Mairi : "Dunno...its so quiet! Hang on a wee minute that's the sound of birds singing!"
Ewan: "I'll have a look...MAIRI its not raining, and the winds died! That's the sound of a nice day!!!"


So finally the rain stopped and as we drove south along the west coast we had a great time finally being able to see the stunning mountain ranges caped with snow and the deep blue of the ocean (Flat Ocean, but at least it wasn't an angry mess of white water). Stopping at some Cliffs with a big car park we discover there were blow holes and egarly headed off camera ready to capture this natural phenomena. Unfortunately the tide was at the wrong height, or the lack of surf, dunno either way but the blow holes weren't blowing. Undetered we continued out along the cliffs and had a cracking time. So much so we got ahead of our selves and thought we had got one up on Old Mother Nature and went straight back to the Eyesore (eye sight tourist office) and booked a days guided walking on the Franz Joseph Glacier the next day. Content that our luck had changed and we had broken Mother Natures resolve we headed on south marvelling at the natural beauty of the landscape and how much difference some vitamin D can make on your mood.

Van Time (Part One) Raglan heading South.

Niall picked us and all our stuff/boards up in a prius, at first we laughed saying there was no way we were all getting in with our boards inside as well, but he proved us wrong. Arriving in raglan we got our first proper look at the kiwi surf scene and after some faffing with insurance and credit cards we set off for a couple of days at the local breaks. A early session at the local beach break - perfect cruise waist to shoulder high lefts and rights proved I could still surf with out braking either my self or board every time I get wet. Again the next day we had the same, if not slightly better swell, longer period and better direction peeling right down the beach and for the first time we both started to get a proper feel for our boards. Some of the friendliest and most enjoyable surf we have had since leaving home. Time was rolling on so we got our act together and drove in a oner down to Wellington.

Sightly scared we wouldn't get on as we were booked on as a van and not a high top camper van...but the ferry men were as tired/coudnt be bothered as usual and we were straight on. The boat stank mostly due to the several million sheep and the vessel itself dated back to the dinosaurs. Seriously we have no right to complain about calmac this heap would have made the streakers look modern and well maintained. Anyhoo they served a good cupa hot choc and so we settled down to watch shrek 2. We also saw dolphins and lots of creepy old germans bikers in rather tight/non flattering leathers. Arriving in Picton we decided it looked a bit hick (how wrong were we) and decided to head NW to nicer golden sands beaches, but it got dark/started to rain so we pit stopped in a wee camp site with the worlds least-likely-to-get-any-surf beach ever.

Marleys Mellow Moments

The paragraphs are a bit of a rant, I feel the I owe the doc an apology, but when I wrote this I feel it was justified. 

Determined not to have to pay the doc-department of crookery- for another nights accomadation ie cold shower and long drop toilets, while being squeezed inbetween other smelly moter homes when we could be out everyones way camping on a nice wee quite beach with perfect wee waves....anyway they dont need my 6 doller contribution. To be fair our mood was probably not helped by the huricane force wind rocking the van or the lashing rain pounding on ever surface like a drum all through the night. The theaving DOC man was actually very plesent even if he did have a rather smug smile while he told us about the forecast. Anyway we headed south west after realising there was probably not going to be any surf/anything worth doing with the forecast. WestPort was our destination not through much choice of ours as its the only place the road goes. En route we stopped for a bite to eat and to use some toilets only to find the theaving DOC were at it again charging 5 dollers to cross a dodgie looking swing bridge over the river Buller to get to the toilets. After paying out dues to the hippies we found the toilets on our side of the river. Anyhoo having paid we decided to then go across and have a look around. The bridge was pretty cool to give them their due and we had great fun trying to bounce it. The river too was pretty spectacualar although the wee biting insects were out in some sort of rage and took it out on our ankles. On arriving in Westport we stuck to our guns and started expoloring every side road/back contary farm track. Finally after a hour or so of driving along windy wee dirt tracks we found a big tree behind some dunes (and by the sounds of it near some thunderous surf) and squeezed our wee van in under for some shelter from the constant barrage of wind and rain.

Another RANT Apologies

Day12 in the Van. Well im not sure if its something ive done or something mairi has done to piss off miss mother nature cos its still blowing a hooly and pure stoten it down. Another long and rather wobbly night in the van and we decided to go find a forecast and more supplys. The forecast confrimed what we thought it was NEVER going to stop raining.EVER. Now I know being scottish and from the westcoast you would think we would be kinda used to the rain, no serriously any time any one ever complains about the rain fall in scotland they should take a good long hard look at them selves we dont know what rain is, these lads living on the westcoast of the southisland they bring a whole new meaning to the word rain. Afer visiting some seal and some massivly blown out surf we headed south (kinda wrongly in my head still assuming the weather will get better if we go south) and also beacuse we really didnt want to go all the way back we came. So another long drive down to Franz Joseph glacier. Again we stopped en route and went to have a look at some blow holes which didnt exist-stupid DOC signing-and some rather interesting/weird lost world looking pancakerocks.